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Castlerigg Stone Circle — Five Thousand Years of Mystery in the Lake District

Written by Steve
Published March 2024
Reading time 6 minutes
Category History & Heritage
Castlerigg Stone Circle in low light with Blencathra behind

Castlerigg Stone Circle was already ancient when the Norse settlers arrived and named the surrounding fells. It was ancient when the Romans built their road past it. It was ancient when the first medieval farmers enclosed the fields around it. We do not know who built it, what it was for, or what the people who gathered here believed. We know it was constructed around 3000 BCE — roughly contemporary with Stonehenge — and that the people who built it chose this particular spot in the Lake District with a precision that becomes apparent the moment you stand inside it.

The circle is set in a natural amphitheatre of fells. Skiddaw to the north, Blencathra to the north-east, the Borrowdale Fells to the south, the Helvellyn range to the east. Every compass direction brings a different summit profile into view. The circle is not at the top of anything. It is in the middle of the landscape, with everything arranged around it.


The stones

Castlerigg has 38 surviving stones, originally perhaps 42, arranged in an oval approximately 30 metres across. The stones are local Borrowdale Volcanic rock — the same dark, hard, ancient igneous rock that forms the central Lake District fells. They vary in height from about half a metre to just over two metres, and they were not shaped — they were selected, presumably from the glacial debris deposited across the valley floors during the ice age, and placed upright.

Inside the circle, on the eastern side, is a rectangular arrangement of smaller stones known as the Cove — a feature unique to Castlerigg among Lake District circles and whose purpose is unknown. Various theories have been proposed: an altar, an enclosure for animals, a special space within the space. None is proven.


The astronomical alignments

Like most Neolithic stone circles, Castlerigg has been studied for astronomical alignments — points where the stones or the spaces between them align with significant solar or lunar events. Some alignments are well-attested: the midwinter sunrise, for example, aligns with a specific gap between the eastern stones. Others are more speculative.

What is clear is that the people who built Castlerigg were paying close attention to the sky and to the relationship between the sky and the landscape. This was not decoration or accident. The circle is an instrument for marking time in a landscape that also marks it — the solstices, the equinoxes, the rising and setting of significant stars. Whether it was a calendar, a temple, a meeting place or some combination of all of these, it was built with deliberate knowledge and deliberate skill.


The Romantic response

The Romantic poets found Castlerigg almost as soon as they found the Lake District. John Keats visited in 1818 and described it in Hyperion — his unfinished poem uses Castlerigg (thinly disguised) as the setting for a gathering of fallen Titans. Wordsworth knew it; De Quincey wrote about it. The combination of extreme antiquity and sublime natural setting was exactly what Romanticism was looking for.

The Victorians who came afterwards in their thousands also responded to it — the stones, the fells, the ancient mystery — but tended to romantic fantasy rather than poetic engagement. Several Victorian guidebooks attributed the circle to druids, which is chronologically impossible (druids are Iron Age; the circle is Neolithic) but reflects the Victorian hunger for a picturesque past to go with the picturesque landscape.


Visiting Castlerigg

Castlerigg is on a minor road east of Keswick, National Trust owned and freely accessible at all times. There is a small car park a short walk from the circle. The access path is good and the circle itself is unfenced — you can walk among the stones, touch them, stand inside the Cove. This openness is relatively unusual for a major prehistoric monument in England and makes the visit different in quality from, say, Stonehenge.

The best time is early morning or evening, when the light is low and the fells cast long shadows across the interior. A clear autumn morning, with frost on the grass and the first light catching Blencathra to the north, is one of the finest experiences the Lake District offers.

On our 8 Lakes and 10 Lakes Full-day tours, Castlerigg is a key stop. Your expert storyteller will explain the geology of the stones, the archaeological context and the Romantic literary response — so that the circle means something specific when you stand inside it.


Castlerigg Stone Circle is a key stop on the 8 Lakes Morning Tour and 8 Lakes Afternoon Tour.

Questions people ask

How many stones does Castlerigg Stone Circle have?
38 survive today, out of what may originally have been 42, arranged in an oval roughly 30 metres across.
What is the Cove at Castlerigg?
A rectangular arrangement of smaller stones inside the circle's eastern side, unique among Lake District stone circles, with a purpose that remains unknown.
What rock are the Castlerigg stones made of?
Local Borrowdale Volcanic rock, the same dark, hard igneous rock that forms the central Lake District fells, selected rather than shaped and likely sourced from glacial debris.

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Steve

Guide & Driver — Astronomy & Landscape Archaeology

Steve traded a career in IT for storytelling. Ask him about the night sky, the weather, or an odd bump in a field — landscape archaeology is a particular favourite.